I’ve found Cape Town’s chicest — and best located — waterfront stay (2024)

As we pull up to the glistening harbour, a chorus of staff cheer, “Welcome home!” It sets the tone for our stay at the Cape Grace hotel.

I know Cape Town well — my dad grew up in the southern suburbs and we’ve been visiting family there for more than 20 years — but I’m used to bunking in family friends’ spare rooms in the leafy suburbs of Constantia or crashing at my cousin’s pad in trendy Sea Point. This newly refurbished five-star hotel in the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, one of Cape Town’s most touristy spots, is a different scene altogether.

When I was growing up, the waterfront is where I’d come with Dad to shop for souvenirs, meet an auntie for lunch, get the ferry to Robben Island to visit the site where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned during the apartheid era or just mooch around the bay, basking in the sun. It has one of the best views of Table Mountain. I’d have a bright green cream soda (my childhood favourite) and Dad would enjoy a crisp chenin blanc at one of the restaurants overlooking the boats, beneath the mountain’s shadow. We’d wait eagerly for its “tablecloth” to appear — the wispy clouds that creep over its sharp, flat edge.

There’s always so much going on and, while it’s enchanting, even amid the chaos of tourists and buskers, I wouldn’t normally think to stay here. However, the location is pretty much perfect — 20 minutes from the airport, a short drive to the rest of the city and just a bridge walk from all of the waterfront’s restaurants and shops.

The hotel has been around since 1996, so it must be doing something right. Many of the staff have been there since the beginning — we meet Laetitia van Rooyen and Janene Isaacs, who have worked in the restaurants for more than 20 years — and are eager to show off all the fancy changes. It’s just reopened after a big refurbishment under new management with Fairmont. The interiors, by 1508 London — the design firm that transformed the old War Office in London into a jazzy new Raffles hotel, OWO — have been transformed.. Now it has a modern aesthetic, while keeping original features, including the porthole windows in the pool changing rooms. The grand entrance is filled with polished herringbone floors contrasting with vibrant, African rugs and green velvet armchairs.

With 112 rooms, including 25 suites, and long corridors, it does feel like a ship, which is fitting given the location, concealed from the crowds, between a private yacht basin and a working shipyard. Most rooms have views — there’s something spectacular to see at every angle, be it the marina, Table Mountain or Signal Hill. If you’re feeling flush, the Cape Grace Suite on the fourth floor has a panorama of them all. But even an entry-level room is luxurious — they are all bright and airy, with elegant panelled walls, slick chocolate-brown floors, oversized concrete lamps and bespoke geometric rugs.

After a quick whizz around the waterfront to show my boyfriend, Jonny, the location, we head back to the hotel’s Library Lounge for a pre-dinner negroni. It’s full of books and trinkets — such as Mandela’s autobiography and books on southern Africa’s extensive bird life, as well as chess sets and antique compasses — that pay homage to the Cape region’s history. The large French-door-like windows that run along the bar and restaurant wall (where there used to be a corridor) are the most striking change. As we sip and gaze out at the spectacular view of the marina, the bartender tells us proudly how much it has opened up the room.

Dinner in the Heirloom Restaurant next door is led by the renowned chef Gregory Czarnecki, and is an array of fancy amuse-bouches, homemade breads, buttery gratins, fresh fish and creamy lobster dishes. The kingklip with grapefruit emulsion main is a standout. The food is rich and heavy in an old-school French bistro kind of way, but utterly delicious. The hotel’s Bascule whisky bar isn’t due to reopen until next month, so we take the sensible option of an early night.

We’re here for three nights and there’s plenty to pack in, so we make good use of the hotel’s complimentary chauffeur, who will take guests anywhere within a six-mile radius of the hotel — perfect for nipping about town and ticking off our sightseeing list. First up is a 7am kayak — rumour has it that two orcas are chilling in the bay.

Unfortunately, the weather has other ideas. “They say Cape Town is like a baby, you never know whether the winds are coming or going,” one of the staff informs us at our early wake-up call. The locals are used to it. The hotel concierge is a marvel when it comes to chopping and changing our plans owing to temperamental weather. We ditch the squally sea and decide to make the most of the morning by walking up Table Mountain.

After four hours of hiking — there are at least five routes to walk up the mountain and my outdoorsy boyfriend and his Garmin watch take us up Skeleton Gorge, one of the more challenging — we’re eager to get the cable car back down and check out the hotel breakfast. It does not disappoint. The staff guide us to our “favourite table” overlooking the harbour as the sun streams into the Library room. Here, we are brought plate after plate of delicious, fresh food. I devour a well-earned omelette and Jonny goes for the poached eggs and avo on toast, flecked with bonito flakes.

With full bellies and sore legs, we decide to chill by the pool and wait for the skies to clear. The outdoor area has also been given a facelift — the pool has a nautical vibe, with zippy orange-and-white striped sunbeds. Set behind the twinkling turquoise water is the impressive outdoor bar, clad in rattan and with a hint of art deco. The hotel’s refreshed Fairmont Spa above the pool area, with gym downstairs, is due to reopen, offering treatments including the Tranquillity Signature Massage (75 minutes; £90).

The wind hasn’t died down, so we swap a windy-looking surf at Muizenberg for a refreshing swim at Clifton Beach on the other side of the mountain. A short amble to Saunders Rock (frequented by locals for a cold morning dip or seriously good sunset) brings us to the best spot to have our dinner picnic of takeaway sushi from Willoughby’s at the waterfront — don’t be put off by it being in a shopping centre, it does some of the best sushi in town (dishes from £3; willoughbyandco.co.za).

We have yet another leisurely breakfast the next day on our balcony (the water is again too rough for kayaking). Sipping coffee in the balmy morning sunshine with just the clinking of boats and the sounds of seals frolicking below is not a bad swap. Our day continues in a similarly relaxed vein with a long, lazy lunch at one of the Cape’s most striking wine farms, Klein Constantia, a 25-minute drive from the hotel. It produces wine from some of the oldest vineyards in South Africa and, after a thorough tour through the cellars, it feels only polite to work our way through the wine list beneath the jacarandas on the Bistro’s terrace (two courses for £17, wine pairing £12; kleinconstantia.com/the-bistro).

We manage to squeeze in a two-hour sunset hike up Lion’s Head — avoid the chains and ladders route unless you’re confident — before retiring to Cape Grace. The small (669m), distinctive peak is a straightforward climb and busy with locals at sunrise and sunset, who come for panoramic views of the city, Table Mountain and the Atlantic.

For the third and final time we rise before the sun in hope of a paddle out to sea. At last, we’re on and our trusty chauffeur Eddie delivers us to Mouille Point, where Sue from Cape Kayak Adventures is waiting for us, eager to get out on the water. Good things do come to those who wait (for bad weather to pass). Although we don’t spot Port and Starboard, the names the locals have given to the orcas, a school of dolphins swim beside us for at least 15 minutes — a truly magical finale.
Sidonie Wilson was a guest of the Cape Grace, which has B&B doubles from £756 (capegrace.com). Fly to Cape Town

Where to eat

Salon, Woodstock
Luke Dale Roberts, the chef behind the now closed Test Kitchen, has brought excitement back for foodies with his recently opened restaurant, Salon. In the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, one floor below the super-popular Pot Luck Club restaurant, it does dishes themed by countries Roberts has worked in — duck suzette represents France, while dumpling with mushroom dashi gives a taste of Japan — all amid chic decor. Choose from the nine-course Journey dinner (£70) or seven-course Explorer lunch (£35). All the countries featured are places Roberts has worked. Delicious co*cktails too (salonct.co.za).

Black Sheep, City Bowl area
On the buzzy Kloof Street, in the heart of the City Bowl, this little place has a lively atmosphere and laid-back approach to food. Signature dishes include the grilled kudu and south Indian coconut fish curry. In the daytime, the bistro-style windows open wide for an airy lunch. At night, it buzzes with life. A great option if you want to experience Cape Town’s more lively and less pretentious foodie scene (mains from £6; blacksheeprestaurant.co.za).

Chefs Warehouse at Tintswalo Atlantic
Dine on a deck overlooking the Atlantic, at the base of Chapman’s Peak and within the Table Mountain nature reserve area. It goes without saying that the view is spectacular but the food demands equal attention. In keeping with its seafront location, there’s delicious fish and seafood dishes, such as togarashi squid and barbecued line fish. It’s very popular — the kind of place where people get engaged — so book in advance and arrive in time for a sundowner of local rosé (set menu options from £30; chefswarehouse.co.za).

What to do

Check out a market
Many areas — including Hout Bay and Kalk Bay — have exciting weekly markets, offering fish, fresh food and farm stalls. And just beyond the V&A Waterfront is a great local hangout, the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, with lots of street food and local artisans. It’s organised by a woman called Sheryl Ozinsky, who’s bringing a farming community to an area where there has been a lot of crime (ozcf.co.za). Neighbourgoods Market takes over the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock every Saturday and Sunday (from 9am-3pm; theoldbiscuitmill.co.za). Browse the huge array of local cuisine, fashion and culture — ostrich burgers, plenty of biltong and proteas — to the backdrop of live music.

Walk around Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden
At the foot of Table Mountain is this botanical paradise. Learn about the Cape’s flora, unique fynbos species and rich South African heritage. There’s lots to explore and as you get higher, it offers great views. In the summer months, it hosts concerts and outdoor events, so it’s worth looking at what’s on. Tickets from £9.50 (sanbi.org/gardens/kirstenbosch).

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Take the circular drive around the Cape Peninsula
It’s a beautiful, 40-mile drive to the most southerly spot in Cape Town: Cape Point. Head out via Kalk Bay (as the sun rises on that side) and stop off in Simon’s Town to visit the penguins at Boulders Beach. When you reach Cape Point, you can catch the funicular to the lighthouse to gaze over the Atlantic, or there are more hikes and trails among endemic fynbos and uninterrupted views of mountainous, breathtaking bays and deserted beaches. You’re likely to spot baboons and mountain zebras too (capepoint.co.za/facilities).

Where else to stay

Kaap Mooi guesthouse, Tamboerskloof
In a quiet neighbourhood, this guesthouse places the emphasis on taking it easy. The rooms are small but they’re all you need when you’re out exploring the city. There’s a small courtyard with a pool surrounded by greenery and the option of breakfast on the bougainvillea-draped balcony.
Details B&B doubles from £70 (kaapmooi.com)

Babylonstoren, Franschhoek
A trip out to the wine regions is obligatory. Stay at one of the most stylish of the farms, Babylonstoren, only 90 minutes from the city. Expect classic Cape Dutch architecture in a rustic, serene setting with top-notch food. There’s a gazillion activities to keep you occupied, from wine tasting to feeding baby water buffaloes and paddling on the dams. For ultimate privacy, stay in one of the newer Fynbos Cottages.
Details B&B doubles from £690 (babylonstoren.com/hotel/fynbos)

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